Essentials: Jojoba oil

Jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis) is the liquid wax produced from the seed of the Jojoba plant, a shrub found in southern Arizona, southern California and northwestern Mexico. I first discovered its superlative use in skincare with the Bodyshop's Jojoba moisturiser in the early 1980s; not a product they make any more - I just checked! It has an excellent affinity with human skin because its composition is very like that of sebum, this doesn't sound sexy but trust me it is important in the long run making Jojoba oil beneficial in skincare.

Jojoba oil makes a fine natural moisturiser for all skin types, and especially for sensitive skins, because of its chemical similarity to sebum it penetrates skin easily and is able to nourish, soften and protect skin without clogging pores. Mystric acid, a common saturated fatty acid, is a component of the oil that ensures good aborption through the skin and its plant wax component mimics skin's collagen helping to keep skin firm, smooth and youthful looking. Its benefits make it suitable for use with dry, itchy skin conditions, oily and acne-prone skins, damaged hair, scalp conditions, shaving rash, heat rash, and infant skincare. It has a natural spf 5 and contains vitamins A, B1, B2, B6, and is very rich in vitamin E, an excellent skincare factor, as well as providing it with longevity and a relatively long shelf life without added preservatives. Its shelf life is 2-3 years, rather than the months of other carrier oils and rancidity is rarely a concern.

Uses: as a face and body moisturiser, removes eye makeup and mascara while strengthening eyelashes and conditioning the skin, as a summer hair oil which at the same time provides the scalp with a natural spf 5.

Postscript: the techy bits above are important (so don't switch-off at 'sebum', 'mystric acid' or 'plant wax') and this is where I believe modern science is at its best - telling us how things work and why they work. I have A-levels in Physics, Chemistry and Zoology, as well as English Literature, which I specialised in later, so this comes from the heart. For me the problem is the commercial applications of applied science in the cosmetic industry and the resulting exploitative prices for jars of cream that do no more than further myths of eternal youth. What's wrong with a wrinkle and a life well lived?

My Essentials: Skincare

I've been obssessed with skincare from my early teens: from Boots No.17 orange flower range, Clinique, Clarins and Shiseido to Aveda. I've tried many others and my search has always been for a minimal, effective routine - I even hum and ha about eye treatments. Many times I've listed the essentials and repeatedly produced the same list: cleanser, exfoliator, moisturiser, sun protection and vitamin C. I have a few additions that creep in and out such as toner and eye treatments. I don't do masks, too much pfaffing, and they end up sitting in my bathroom cabinet - I want to get washed, dressed and on with the day.

I came around to making my own natural skincare from an interest in aromatherapy and natural perfumery. Encouraged by a friend who had already started making her own natural toiletries, I've voyaged through books and websites, and experimented on my kitchen table. Curiously enough my research has culminated with the lynch-pin to my regime being a toner/exfoliator based on orange flower water in an unintentional homage to my first flirtations with cleansing, toning and moisturising.

The Boots No.17 orange flower range of the 1970s had opaque plastic bottles with orange caps, and swirling orange floral designs printed around the bottles. Orange was the colour of N0.17 in the 1970s: mascaras in orange and white tubes with Art Nouveau inspired detailing, just like the black and yellow packaging of Mary Quant's Special Receipe skincare.

I've also put together a blend of essential oils that not only address my skincare concerns, but should suit all skin types, and I've enlisted my friends and family to try my toner and a face oil. The face oil is made with this blend of essential oils, along with jojoba and wheatgerm oil. I've focused on balancing patches of dryness and oiliness, cell renewal and the dreaded signs of aging - but that's where the vitamin C and sunblock come in.