Teenage Kicks: Mary Quant

As a teenager I worked in Boots on a Saturday as a general assistant for the cosmetic and perfumery counters. The Mary Quant counter was the greatest lure for me and I can catalogue the play-pretties, with their iconic daisy motifs, that I persistently bought until they were no more.In the round, clear glass bottles of nail varnish the vibrant colours shone out. My favourites were 'Bloody Mary' and 'Black Cherry'. I also got through many a tube of 'Nutshine', a neutral lipgloss, and tubes of the sheer red 'Cranberry' lipstick. A makeup style I have really not changed, although I gave up the thick pencils of black kohl and mascara when I got contact lenses - it was easier to get my eyelashes dyed.

I wear glasses again now and I've added tinted moisturiser and mineral face powder to my repertoire. Those Saturdays on the Mary Quant counter echo on with cosmetics from Dr. Hauschka, Lush and Lily Lolo I buy now. My preferred palette changes very little from the dark nails and easy on the lip, with sheer purple-black lipstick and dark green, purple and blue nail varnishes turning up in my makeup bag.

Retro Kicks: The American Cosmetic Industry 1945

The Marie Laurencin, 1934, portrait of Helena Rubenstein (Helena Rubenstein Foundation) signposts the massive US industrialisation of the cosmetic industry, which this You Tube clip documents:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62m17iJUBeA&feature=player_embedded#!

For some reason the above should be a hyperlink but it doesn't work like that, so cut and paste into your browser -

The 'scientific' approach to beauty used the contemporary technological advances but ultimately nothing changed the 'family' recipes of Rubenstein, Czasky, Lazlo, Lubatti and the ultimate rising star of Estee Lauder - European emigres who needed to make a living. What they knew was not new but they were extremely clever in the way they recast what they knew.

See the book Lipstick Wars, by Lindy Woodhead.

Teenage Kicks: Goya Aqua Manda

For the just teenage me this was the apotheosis of fragrance: the decline of Biba and Quant, the cusp of punk to come - rich and difficult compared to the crisp lemony scents also around, and more intriguing than Charlie and Smitty. It has left me with longing for I never had the money to possess it.

Now in The Green Beauty Bible Jo Wood's Amka is described as reminiscent of Aqua Manda, a long lost Goya fragrance, but I think I need to get me some.

My Essentials: Body Cream

After a scrub in the bath there is the pleasure of massaging in an ungent and my favourite to date is Goodworks' Good As Gold body cream. It smells wonderful, I think it's the orange oil and over time you will see a bit of a theme here. There's ylang ylang as well and that's another fragrance I'm partial to with its pungent, dark floral smell - the indoles I guess, I love jasmine too and that's the dominant note in the blend of essential oils I'm using in my facial oil. It also left my skin softer than I have felt it in a long time.

There are other body creams I'd use again: Aveda's Replenishing Body Moisturiser, Retro Lush's Potion, although I'm trying Lush's Creme Anglaise at the moment - this has orange in it too - and I have a pot of ELH Soaps (http://www.elhsoaps.co.uk/) body cream lined up in my bathroom cabinet.

A bit of fun from Channel 4 - courtesy of The Bloomsbury Bluestocking

http://www.channel4.com/programmes/the-lady-and-the-revamp/4od#304865

My Essentials: Skincare (continued)

As I said two blogs ago we all need sunblock and vitamin C, as well as cleasing and moisturiser:

I've liked Weleda sun lotion, Paul & Joe sun filter/primer (now discontinued) - that worked really well with a lick of bronzing powder (again Paul & Joe's has been my favourite to date)and Aveda tinted moisturiser. I'm currently using Bobbie Brown's tinted balm but it's not a patch on the Aveda. I'd like to make a special mention for Philosophy's Supernatural as sun protection and foundation.

For cheap and cheerful vitamin C, Sainsbury's Defend! isn't too harsh or sickly - I get the effervescent tablets and get one of my eight glasses of water a day - but Solgar supplements, or Neal's Yard, are among my favourites for a really good quality, buffered product and with these I indulge in my weakness for bottled, sparkling water even though I have a filter on my kitchen tap!

But just now I'm off to watch the final episode of Skins...

My Essentials: A Damn Good Scrub in the Bath

A Damn Good Scrub in the Bath - for me it consists of an excellent bath or/and shower gel, with the scrubbing implement of choice: Japanese wash cloth, ayate mitt, loofah, etc., and a big tub of hot water. I have a very large and old enamel bath tub (it came with the house)and a man of six feet plus will be comfortable in it.

As I've said before I like a soak in oils, but sometimes you just want to slough, and I keep coming back to Lush's 'Tramp' showergel - it's all that patchouli. Patchouli is a big thing for me; the first fragranced product I spent serious money on at 18 was a 3 bar box of Crabtree and Evelyn Patchouli soap in a shop in Little Clarendon Street, Oxford. The smell, not hippy - too balanced, and the packaging, Art Nouveau and Rousseau-esque with it's nearly navy background and wild, lurid foliage, was to me in 1979 sublime.

And, back to scrubbing, soaking in oils is opulent and exquisite in its own way but sometimes the non-conformist relish of excoriation is hard to beat. It has to be followed by a good body cream and my favourite to date is the Goodworks big tub from Boots - it really does leave your skin feeling like velvet.